Drinking Horn Holder
Cut the plank to 60mm (2 23 / 64 inches) wide using a bench saw, and. Then use a holesaw to cut a 38mm (1 ? inch) hole for the horn in the top of the plank. In my initial calculations I opted to make the perimeter of the hole 12mm (? inch) away from the top of the stand, and 10mm (25 / Author: Arthur Russ. It could sit on your mantle or you could turn it into a drinking horn! Now, a horn isn't going to hold itself upright when filled with drink, so you'll need a way to support it. Let's make a holder that can attach to your best belt or baldric. Here's what supplies you'll need: Free Horn Holder Template.
Arthur strives to balance makee, functionality, and quality with costs when planning DIY projects in the home and garden. Just before Christmas my wife bought me and my son a Viking drinking horn each from the Exeter Christmas Market; as stocking fillers for Christmas. Obviously, to display and use the drinking horns you need a stand. I could have bought a couple, but making your own from scrap how to make a drinking horn stand is a lot cheaper, and rewarding.
Therefore shortly after Christmas I searched the web for designs and then spent an afternoon in my DIY workshop to quickly make a couple from a piece of scrap wood. Drinkin are a number of designs to choose how to make a arnold palmer some quite elaborate.
However, the ones that appealed to me are the simplest, most basic designs; just a flat piece of wood with a hole in it. Such a basic design would be the easiest and quickest to make.
Well within the scope of most DIY enthusiast; and something that can be made quickly and easily for next to nothing. I would have preferred to have used hardwood, but I also wanted to recycle scrap wood from my wood store, rather than go out and buy the wood specifically for the project. Scrap wood I found in my workshop, ideal for making the drinking horn stands.
Below is a step-by-step guide on how I made a pair of wooden drinking horn stands from scrap wood. The wood plank I found for the project was a bit rough and ready and would need a lot of sanding to get it hoorn smooth. Using the belt sander to get back to the bare wood, and give a smooth surface.
Before cutting the wood to size I needed to decide what length and width to cut it, and what size hole to cut. Although there are plenty of images of the type of stand I was making on the web, none that I found gave any measurements; so it was largely guesswork and judgement.
If I guessed wrong, and made the stands too small or the hole too large I would have to start again. Fortunately, the plank of wood I had was long enough to make three stands, so if I cut the first one too short, or made the first hole too large, I would have enough wood to try to get it right for the other two. In testing the prototype, I concluded I needed to increase the size of the hole slightly, and possibly modify the length a little.
Therefore I cut the remaining plank in half so that the two pieces could be what color is ripe rhubarb to the desired length later and then placed one of the halves underneath the prototype, in a wooden vice, to give the drill bit for the hole cutter something to grip. I was able to not only enlarge the hole in the prototype, but at the same time cut the hole in one of the two final pieces.
On retesting I concluded that the length of around mm just over 6 inches is a good size. Therefore I aligned both final pieces together one on top of the other in the mitre saw, and cut them to mm. To give the stands a bit of shape, and therefore style, using the image of a drinking horn stand I found on the web that I based my design on, there was three parts of the stand that needed to be kake shaped I used a pencil to freehand draw the side curve on one side of the prototype, and then used it as a guide to cut the shape with a band saw.
After a few minor norn until I was satisfied I then used the first curve as a template to mark out and cut the same curve on the final two drinjing of woods, and then flipped one of them over mirror image as a template to mark out and cut the same curve on the other side of the two final pieces of wood.
The top curve is a gentle, therefore a large circular object, like a 5L gallon tin of paint, makes an ideal template for marking out the curve, which can then be cut in the band saw. The bottom curve is essentially a large segment of a small circle.
Therefore I clamped the two final stand pieces together on top of a piece of sacrificial wood plywoodso that the drill bit of the hole cutter had something to grip. Using sacrificial wood for how to make a drinking horn stand for the drill bit, so as to use a hole cutter saw for creating the curved base of the stand. I used the orbital sander to round off all the outside edges that the sander would reach e.
The how to protect a patent disk in the dremel was near ideal for rounding off both sides, and the inner rim, of the hole. The demel might be a small tool, but it is hhorn, so you need a light touch to prevent the sanding disks from eating deep groves in the wood.
I then finished off with the hand sandpaper, concentrating on the bottom curve, but also just to finish off what the dremel did in the hole.
Traditionally, the drinking horns are associated with the Vikings; and typically many of the stands on the web are engraved with symbols that are symbolic to the Maie or sometime Celtic or Pagan symbols. Therefore, after a bit of trial and error on the prototype how to make a drinking horn stand other scrap wood I opted to personalise the stands with our initials.
I could have used the dremel, which does have a selection of engraving tools but, after some trial and error, I found that a pencil was most effective for what is the meaning of singular skill levels.
I first just lightly drew the initials to give an outline, and then over the initials again several times, pressing harder each time to hod a depression in the grain tto wood that would hold more of the wood stain and darken up when I wood stained the stands. Inscribing our initials in how to install pioneer deh-150mp stands as a simple design; pressing hard with the pencil to indent the wood.
On completion of any DIY project, before wood staining, norn, polishing or painting, the wood should always first be wiped over drinkimg white spirit to get rid of any sawdust. Then before wood staining it I wiped it over with teak oil and left it for another half hour to dry.
The natural wood oils tend to evaporate overtime, as the wood dries out, so the teak oil frinking good for nourishing natural wood; especially exterior furniture.
The reason I used teak oil is because it replaces the natural oils in wood it would make the wood less absorbent to the wood dye that I was intending to use as a finishing touch. I specifically wanted the drinking horn stands to be less absorbent to achieve more of an antique wood effect, rather than the wood being uniformly dark stained. Using white spirit to clean the wood; and then teak oil to make it less absorbent for the wood dye, to help get more of an antique effect.
I had a choice between using wood etand or wood dye. I opted for the wood dye primarily because of using it in conjunction with the teak oil it would give the finished effect that I was after.
Also, apart from it being more expensive, wood dye is easier and quicker to apply than wood stain, and it dries quicker usually touch dry within minutes.
The wood dye is just wiped on with a cloth and left to dry. Although its touch dry within minutes, the tin says you should leave it for 24 hours how to make a drinking horn stand applying any polish. However, in looking for an antique effect, I just left if stahd half an hour while I had how to make a drinking horn stand coffee before applying the polish.
I finished the stands off with a good jake of beeswax polish. So with silicone oil you get into a vicious circle of forever polishing. This looks like a good project, well-executed. The detailed explanation will be useful for anyone else planning a similar project. Each one intricately hand engraved and inlayed with shiny metal. They are made in India and at the time were being sold through Fair Trade.
So to protect the tops while how to use cci in forex enjoying their beauty I had plate glass cut to fit each one, and stuck rubber feet on the corners of each plate glass sheet.
Personal Finance. The prototype stand. The 44mm hole saw cutter I used to enlarge the hole in the prototype stand. Using a 5L tin of paint as a template to mark the top curve. Sanding the outside edges with an orbital sander. The storage boxes for the Dremel I use, and its accessories. Pack of assorted sandpaper I use for hand sanding. The beeswax polish I use how to find auction homes all my DIY projects. Viking drinking horn in its stand and ready for use.
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Viking Stall Where We Bought Our Viking Drinking Horns
For my drinking horn holder, I only used leather and one brass fastener, to combine the two peaces together. The leather tape cut I from the remaining leather. The round knob on the end of the holder is only to cover the knot under it. The holder is because of the tape adjustable at his diameter. suggest filing the edges down into a sharper edge, and use that to pry/scoop out the core. You may need to put the horn back into the boiling water so that the core further down can be heated, once you've removed the portion near the rim. If you check your horn every 2 hours you're pretty safe to boil it. The horn will get "mushy" after a while. Natural Real Horn Handmade Viking Medieval LARP Drinking Horn with Horn Stand. SkullVikings. From shop SkullVikings. 5 out of 5 stars. () reviews. $
Drinking Horns by Vithar Herren. When you pick out a horn to use as a drinking horn, there are a couple of things to look for.
First, consider the overall size and shape of the horn. Will you be hanging it around your neck? Which edge of the rim appears to be shaped about right for drinking from? And if you do drink from that side, then will the tip of the horn be pointing up, or down? If it's pointing up, that is better because your liquid won't tend to "splash" out, but will pour out smoothly.
Does the horn still have a "core" to clean out? This takes a considerable amount of work. How heavy is it? Will you be holding it in your hand for long periods? If the outer sheath is thick, then your horn will hold much less liquid than it may appear capable of.
In some horns, the inner "open" area ends not far from the rim, and the whole middle section to the tip is all solid. If you can Leaks can be repaired, but that means more work for you! You can also get an idea of how much fluid the horn will comfortably hold this way.
I like to make my drinking horns, in what I consider the "natural" way. I've read how some use beeswax, or salad bowl coatings, or some other substance to coat the inside of the horn, but that seems like a cop-out to me. When I acquire a horn I usually buy one that is already "cored" and there is no horn-marrow to clean out. However, if you have a core still in the horn, you may need to boil it out.
Boil the horn, completely submerged in water for at least 6 hours. Gently lift the horn out, and I like to use a corkscrew to test the rigidity of the core. It should be very soft and pliable now. Too much boiling, and it should be goop!
You can get large chunks out with the corkscrew, or a pick. If you turn the horn rim-down, and firmly bang it down onto a table, most of the core should fall out. You may need to put the horn back into the boiling water so that the core further down can be heated, once you've removed the portion near the rim.
If you check your horn every 2 hours you're pretty safe to boil it. The horn will get "mushy" after a while, but as long as you don't scar the outside with tongs or something, when picking it up, you can easily re-shape it if it begins to flatten due to all the boiling. Also, I find it convenient to put something in the very bottom of the pot, so that the horn isn't directly touching the bottom surface of the pot that you're boiling water in.
Otherwise, the tip of the horn will heat faster than the rest, and this may cause it to bend, crack or flatten. Be patient getting the core out.. After the core is out.. I fill it with boiling water, and wait to see if any leaks develop.
Make a note of the leaks, and we'll repair them later. I get a series of bottle-brushes and gently, but firmly scrub the inside of the horn, while pouring boiling, soapy water through between times, to rinse it. The bristle brush is critical You have to find a brush that has bristles on the side, and extending out to the top as well.
Otherwise, when you try to shove the brush into the horn, the metal tip of the brush will possibly scrape furrows on the heat-softened inner wall of the horn. After go through this process many, many times. I get a horn that is perfectly clean on the inside!
The test of this, is to put pure, bottled drinking water into the horn, and when your palette is perfectly neutral, sip some of the water, and swish it as if you were tasting wine. If you have no "horny" taste after this, then you've got a clean horn! If your horn has any leaks, or tears you can use non-toxic finger nail repair glue this is a substance used to repair and fortify fingernails, and con be found at most major stores to fill in the hole, or rebuild a small portion of missing horn.
Also, if you have "bubbles" or "flakes" of horn material coming loose on the outside of the horn, these can be repaired in a similiar fashion. For these problems, it is usually easiest to reboil the horn, until it is very pliable, then firmly press the bubbles or flakes down until they are as flat against the horn as they will go. Now if it is a flake, and has an open crack in it, pour the fingernail repair glue into the crack, and keep forcing it in until the entire crevice is full. For bubbles, you need to cut away the "bubbled up" portion of the horn skin, then apply the fingernail repair glue all around the edges of the bubble where you cut away the raised portion.
File down any excess fingernail repair glue, and using fine grain steel wool, create a sheen close to that of the regular horn skin. Finish as usual with a jeweler's rouge cloth and your repair spot should be very close to undetectable.
A final trick to completing the repair: Use the repaired area to paint or carve on so that your design or painting covers the repair even more! Start with rough steel wool, or a piece of glass to scrape off the "rough" on the outside of the horn. When you have basically a smooth horn, that just needs extensive refinement, or polishing, then switch to a very fine grade steel wool. Scrub the outside of the horn until you get a smooth, sanded-like surface. You'll want to use finer and finer grades of steel wool to further smooth your surface.
You'll still feel the scratches of the steel wool, esp. You'll also see lots of extremely tiny scratches. Eventually, the horn will feel glassy smooth to your fingers. If your horn is very dry to start with, it doesn't hurt to moisten it during the sanding process. You can use water, but that dries quickly and has to be constantly reapplied. You can also use honing oil.
Honing oil is often used on whetstones used to sharpen knives, so you should be able to pick some up in a sporting department of a big store, or in any place that specializes in selling knives. Now, use the inside "suede" edge of a piece of leather -the "rougher" the better. Again, lots of elbow grease. Finally, finish with a jeweler's cloth. You'll eventually create a mirror-like sheen on the outside surface of the horn! Some people like to coat the outside of a horn with a varnish in order to keep the outside glossy and smooth.
That's fine, if you want to do that. It probably DOES extend the life of the horn. If you are going to paint or carve on your horn though, you should wait to varnish it until you've completed all your decorating.
I don't know how necessary this is But to "cure" my horns, I use Guiness extra stout. It is heavy, and dark, and has a very strong taste, so I imagine that it "soaks" into the fiber of the horn better than a weaker ale would Anyway, I stand the horn so that the rim is absolutely level, and fill it all the way up with Guiness.
Every 4 hours or so, you should check it and refill it to the top of the rim. After 24 hours, you can pour the Guiness out, and rinse the horn thoroughly. You're done! This horn should last you forever, you use no wax, so you'll never get wax in your drink, or melted all over your car seat on long trips You use no plastic to coat the inside, so you never have to worry about whether or not you're drinking a possibly toxic plastic in with your mead!
The only care the horn will require is washing out after being used. In my experience, you don't want to let a beverage with foam sit in your horn for more than a few hours, otherwise a "stain" from the foam begins to form on the sides of the horn, a stain which takes ALOT of elbow grease to remove!
Your horn can be decorated a number of ways. You can draw on the skin of the horn with a pencil, and then erase any mistakes innumerable times. Finally, when your drawing is adequate, you can fill in the lines with the paint of your choice. A good acrylic paint works fine, especially if you "seal" it in with a coat of laquer or varnish when you're done. You can carve runes or pictures into the skin of the horn with a dremel tool or with a good sharp knife.
Either way, it takes a steady hand to carve out the detail, but when you're finished with your horn, you'll have something to be proud of at every gathering you attend, and the knowledge that you made it yourself will fill you with a very satisfied sense of accomplishment. Okay, Fill half full with boiling water, pour in some soap, cover rim with something other than your hand!
Shake well, fill the rest of the way up with boiling water, let sit until water is totally cool. Repeat, however this time begin scrubbing with a bristle bottle cleaner when water is cool enough to tolerate. Additionally, you may want to pour a solution of water and bleach use very little bleach in your mixture into the horn, esp. Let this sit, then rinse repeatedly. The "curing" process will cover up the smell of the bleach.
Another good trick is to use Polident! Yes, fill the horn full of hot water, then start dropping Polident tablets into the water. Be sure to use plenty of Polident in the water, if you have a large horn, it may require lots of Polident. I used this trick with a horn that held 2 quarts of water, and I had to use 7 Polident tablets to achieve the right effect!
Depending on the color of the Polident tablets, your water will begin to foam and bubble, then turn the color of the tablets usually green, in my experience. Let the water sit for a while at least 30 minutes then pour out the top fourth, and begin to scrub with your bottle brush.