Grafting Underarm Stitches – With No Holes!
Place all the stitches for the front on one needle. Slip the first three stitches onto a yarn holder. Knit across the work from right to left, with the right side of the work toward you. Slip the last three stitches onto a holder. Turn the work, and purl across. Jul 13, · First, knit a sleeve too long by mistake. Second, sulk for ten seconds. Third, get your mattress stitch on. Here, I seamed an inch, from the cuff upwards. Then I cut the yarn and skipped the next ten rows, leaving them unseamed. Then I rejoined the yarn and commenced mattress stitch toward the top of the sleeve.
Take, for example, this sweater sleeve. If I had picked up the stitches around it like the instructions told me to, I would probably have had a huge gap between the underarm and where the sleeve meets the yoke. This technique can work on plenty of projects. But you can use the same approach on sock heels to avoid a gap in the corner between the foot stitches and heel stitches.
The sweater is constructed from the top down. After knitting the yoke, I placed the stitches how to knit sleeve holes the sleeves on stitch holders, following the pattern instructions. Then I knit the rest of the sweater body, and came back to the stitches around the sleeves.
To make sure the sleeve goes all the way around the armhole, stitches are picked up across the underarm and combined with the stitches on the holder. This requires turning a corner, leaving a little gap. To avoid that gap, all we need to do is pick up some extra stitches then decrease them out. The pattern instructs me to pick up 3 stitches from the underarm starting at the center, then cast on the stitches from the holder, and then pick up 3 stitches from the other side of the underarm.
First, I picked up what happens when you jailbreak a iphone 3 underarm stitches starting at the center. I picked up two extra stitches between the underarm stitches and the first stitch on the stitch holder. I continued knitting around to the other side of the sleeve. Then, I knit around to one stitch before the first marked stitch. To do that, I knit the stitch before the marker together with the first extra stitch.
Then I knit the second extra stitch together with the next stitch which was the first stitch on the holder yarn and is now on the needle. I continued knitting around to one stitch before the next marked stitch and again prepared to how to knit sleeve holes the extra stitches.
I knitted the stitch before the marker together with the first extra stitch; then I knitted the second extra stitch together with the first underarm stitch on that side.
Step 1: First, I picked up the 3 underarm stitches starting at the center. Step 2: I picked up two extra stitches between the underarm stitches and the first stitch on the stitch holder. Step 3: I continued knitting around to the other side of the sleeve. I picked up 2 extra stitches again, and placed another stitch marker around them.
Step 4: Then, I knit around to one stitch before the first marked stitch. Step 5: I continued knitting around to one stitch before the next marked stitch and again prepared to decrease the extra stitches.
The final finished sleeve Check out the photo of the finished sleeve above. Sign up for our newsletter. Stay connected to Craftsy experts. Access to every class. Monthly or annual member. Premium Membership Sign up for the Premium Membership and get access to our best Craftsy videos and projects. Learn new craft techniques and tips from the experts. Monthly Membership. How to knit sleeve holes How to get out of teaching.
Go into the front stitch purlwise and leave it on as usual (fig. 1), then into the back stitch purlwise (fig. 2). Remove this stitch from the back needle, then insert your tapestry needle under both legs of the next stitch in the fabric (fig. 3). Then go knitwise into the last stitch and remove it from the needle. Start with the right sleeve, and using a circular needle with the right side of the back facing you, start at the underarm and pick up stitches all around the back arm scythe to the shoulder seam. The ratio is 1 stitch per 2 rows, even at the underarm. Pick up .
We talk about waist shaping and bust darts and ease and a host of other things when we talk about fit, but my firm belief has always been: fit starts with the armhole.
And the kind of armhole that will give YOU the best fit is largely determined by your bust. The basic concept here is this: The bigger the difference between your bust and your shoulder, the more tailoring you need in the body along the armhole edges. If your bust is busty, you need a pyramid or a cone sweater type see featured illustration because you need a sweater that narrows from bust to shoulder.
Have you ever worn a button-up shirt that fit you oh-so-cute in the arms and back, but gaped at the buttons on your chest? Now hold the tape measure behind your neck and measure from shoulder point to shoulder point, about where the armhole seam on a fitted T-shirt falls. Mine measures Half my bust measures How do you decrease stitches in this area? Through armhole shaping!
I cover these concepts and a ton of other sweater elements in my book, Knitting Plus. This book was written for plus-sized women, but the concepts work for everyone—how to customize armholes, sleeve caps, lengths and widths, and tricks for modifying different sweater types. You know that big beloved Grand Canyon sweatshirt from in your drawer? The fit of a drop-shoulder should be oversized and sweat-shirty; it has no tailoring.
As the pattern sizes up, that bust-to-cross-back ratio changes quite a bit, and on you it will end up oversized if you have a large bust. No point in adding highly articulated waist shaping to one of these guys, ya hear me? To help nip in the rectangle a bit, we have the modified drop-shoulder. So you have the same basic fit and effect of the drop-shoulder, with slightly less fabric in the cross-back. Bind off stitches at the underarm, modify your stitch patterns to accommodate the reduction, and work even to the shoulder.
The set-in just begs for customization. First, a straight underarm bind-off cuts away a notch, then regular decreases along the armhole bring the fabric in gradually. With this approach, you get the right width for both your bust and your cross-back. The set-in is the armhole of choice for plus-sized women, large-busted women, and petite women.
They may need to add depth to the armholes, as well. So everyone should love the set-in! It may require more math, measuring, and reworking, but the style ALLOWS for that kind of reworking like no other sweater armhole does. Again, check out my book for help. The set-in and the raglan are both useful to women because they narrow from bust to shoulder. Now, the raglan is interesting because it requires 4 cones to work together: the front, the back, and sleeves 1 and 2.
The way these cones are worked, joined, and shaped can differ greatly from one design to the next, but the basic effect is a tailored fit with a sporty look. Where things become problematic is in people with unusual body proportions. Large bust, fleshy arms, narrow shoulders? Raglans could be weird on you. Petite or very tall?
Could be weird. Fleshy arms but average otherwise? The reason unusual proportions cause trouble is that the 4 cones of the raglan have to be worked over the same number of rows with the same number of decreases along the armholes, matching across the seams. If you need to work larger sleeves because of your arm size, and then work the same rows and decreases as the body, you will end up with too much fabric at the top of the sleeve, which creates a deeper neck on a raglan, which will change the whole look and fit of the sweater.
If you need to change the depth of the yoke because of your height, you will interfere with the number of rows and the rate of shaping. These are not insurmountable problems; they just require some modification. I would not aim for a highly customized fit in a raglan, but you can certainly get a more body-conscious fit in a raglan than you would a drop-shoulder. Because there is no articulated armhole or sleeve cap, this style has a kind of soft, shapeless look in the upper body, and does require some extra fabric, both in depth and circumference, to allow for comfortable movement and undergarments.
And it is a difficult style to customize. Any changes to sleeve size, bust size, or yoke depth will mess with the decrease rounds of the yoke and the stitch multiple, which is often tied to specific patterning in these sweaters.
Think about those Icelandic colorwork sweaters all the cool kids on Instagram are rockin. Those colorwork patterns require very precise stitch counts and shaping rounds in the yoke. If you do have a disproportionately large bust and want to make a circular yoke, just know that the size that fits your bust may lead to a sweater that is generally oversized on you—but this can be a stylish and comfy fit in a sweater.
This sweater is a bit of a freak and rather hard to classify. The most basic dolman is a T shape in which the sleeves join the body at 90 degrees and just keep going. The sleeves become the body. This can be achieved by working cuff to cuff, or from hem to underarm and casting on stitches for the sleeves, then working the whole T together in long rows.
Or any of other ways people knit dolmans these days. Wacky designers. Like the circular yoke, the dolman, with its seamless construction, offers less customization and less tailoring in the upper body. The fit should be roomy. The sleeve is often wide and dramatic.
Embrace the ease. Knit sideways. Be a freak. This is the Lace Dolman Jacket and it is just that—a dolman. This thing was super-fun to knit and it is super-cute on me. It tends to do that slip-off-the-shoulder thing, yknow? But it pairs so well with little dresses and scoop-neck tees, I just love it. So one day, I tried belting it. And dude. Perfect closure, toilet-plunger waist, no slipping.
Bangin, right? You must Register or Login to post a comment. Remember me Log in. Lost your password? Look at the cross-back and bust circumference marks in this diagram—these measurements mean a lot when it comes to fit and sweater type. Learn about all the sweater elements and what they mean for you in the book Knitting Plus. The Harvey Pullover is a great modern sweater and feature drop-shoulder construction.
The Venezia Pullover and Rheya Cardigan feature set-in shaping. The Rawah Pullover and Biscotti Sweater feature raglan construction. The Slopes Pullover and Azure Lake Sweater feature circular-yoke shaping, decorated with seamless patterning.
Nuff said. What sweater makes YOU feel amazing? Find your fit with these products! Quick View. Share 2K. Pin Related Terms:. Project of the Week: Vilnis Top. Have a technical question? Contact Us. Join the conversation! Cancel reply You must Register or Login to post a comment.