Tutorial: General flight case assembly instructions
First drill the holes for the rivets with an aluminium-wood drill (the drill bits in the likeloveus.com web shop are ideal for this). Drill through the aluminium and all through the wood. The case angles usually have three grooves on both sides. Build a Flightcase Pedal Board Step 1: Build a Closed Box. This is the step that makes all the difference - build a closed box and then cut off the lid. Step 2: Cut the Locking and L Extrusions. Cut your locking extrusion on a 45 degree angle [pic 2], and fit them on the Step 3: Riveting Stuff.
I'm going to teach you how to make a flight case for a Boss GT guitar pedal, but you could use these instructions to make a flightcase for any purpose you want, and ohw find it's a lot easier than you thought. Before I tried to build this case I had absolutely no experience doing anything like this, so if you have no experience than you're perfectly qualified.
I have no fancy equipment - the only powered tools I used were a jigsaw and a drill - so you really have nothing holding you back.
Before making this project I thought that a flightcase would be very difficult and precise work, but it turns out you can be a lot sloppier than most projects. The pre-made aluminium extrusions cover up all manner of mistakes, so relax, it's going to end up looking amazing.
My case has a patch panel on the back fpight the inside shelf [pic 3], and a built in cable storage compartment in the lid [pic 4]. It also integrates my wireless receiver so when I set up at a gig I plug the power cable in, plug it into my amp or the house, and I'm done.
That's it - my bass case, my pedal case, and two cables - that's all Tl need. Materials needed: - A big sheet of laminated plywood, I used 7mm. You could use non-laminated and paint it, but it is nowhere near as strong. I'll be detailing what I used as we go through, but there are so many different parts you could use to change the functionality or the aesthetic. I wanted to get the base part of the case the side with the pedal in as thin as possible, so that How to build flight cases could still easily hit the buttons with my foot.
For that reason I got specific corner pieces and butterfly how to build flight cases, which I detail in steps 3 and 4. I used 4. I haven't given any measurements for the pieces I used because you'll most likely want to customise the box to your specific requirements. This is the step that makes all the difference - build a closed box buuld then cut off the lid. This way you can be sure that the lid and base fit perfectly together, and it also saves you a lot of time.
Make sure you glue and clamp it. When it's fully dried, use masking tape to make a guide for cutting the lid off [pic 3]. You can get all fancy and tape some cardboard what time does warped tour start and end 2012 the bottom of your jigsaw so as not to scratch the case, but seriously it's going to last all of one roadtrip before it's scratched to hell so why bother. To start the cut, drill a hole on the tape line that your jigsaw blade can fit through, and start cutting.
Don't worry about that original hole, it's going to be covered up by the locking extrusions. And just to prove how easy it is to build a flightcase, it doesn't even matter if your cutting is a bit wobbly - the extrusions in the next step will cover that up! The last picture is a test fit with my 10B and wireless receiver. Cut your locking extrusion on a 45 degree angle [pic 2], and fit them on the case.
I used a hacksaw for this, but if you had a powered mitre saw that would definitely be the way to go. I can't find the extrusion I used on the site, but it was very similar to E on this page. The important part in my case is that is wasn't very tall, to minimise the how to build flight cases of the base portion of the case.
Once they all match up and look good, you'll need to glue them on. I used something called Liquid Nails, but any sort of construction glue would work fine. Glue them onto both halves of byild case, and put the two halves together with some weight on top.
That will ensure that how to build flight cases extrusions set without any gaps between the two halves [pic 3]. Next, cut the L extrusions for the edges of the case. I bought mine at the local hardware store, they were very cheap.
You don't need to be very accurate about the length, because the ends will be covered up by the corner pieces did I mention building a flightcase is easy? You'll need some of those gow clamps though [pic 4]. In the last pic you can see how it all looks so far. Note, the L extrusions are just sitting there, no glue for them. Drill some holes and rivet those ho on. You can see I'm using duct tape to hold the extrusions in place while I drill how to build flight cases holes.
How to build flight cases don't need to use washers on the inside for these rivets, they will do a very strong job of gripping just the ply. Yes, I was surprised by this too, but I learnt this from a real flightcase maker. If you want to prove it to yourself, howw a scrap bit of ply and rivet a scrap bit of L extrusion on.
There is no way in hell you're pulling that L extrusion off. Elcom part from this page are the ones I used. I put the "feet" part of them at the rear of the case, so when the handle is at the top, it's sitting on the feet.
Hold a corner onto the case and drill the holes out [pic 3]. I didn't use a pilot hole, the corner piece held the drill bit in place. The rivet will grip just fine through one side only. Rivet on all the corners and step back and admire your work. Looking very sharp indeed!! Now we have to cut some holes for the butterfly catches to go in. I'm using L from this page for my catches. Those ones have the smallest small half, which means I can get the base part of my case as thin as possible, so that I can still press the pedal buttons with my foot easily.
Measure out the cuts, and just jigsaw through the extrusion and ply [pic 2]. It should look like [pic 3] when you've finished fligyt sides. Rivet on the butterfly catches. Leave a 1mm gap between the two halves or the catch so that how to get toned in 2 weeks pull the lid how to build flight cases on when you close the case.
Rivet the catches on with washers on the inside. For the handle, just put it wherever you want, drill some buikd, and rivet again with washers. I put my handle slightly towards the base side, as my pedal is the heaviest thing in the case and I wanted the case to hang vertically from the handle. That's it tk the outside, doesn't it look awesome? Now, onto the inside! This is where we'll probably part ways. My case is specifically for my bass guitar pedal setup, but you can get some ideas from what I've done.
Cable storage compartment [pic 2] shows the framing for the cable storage. The angle piece is just holding it in place while the glue dries. Then I just cut a piece of ply for the lid bukld put some hinges and a catch on. The foam you see there is just some temporary I put in for testing, but I ended up never changing it because hey, it worked. Patch panel And now the really cool part - the patch panel. Since flibht pedal lives permanently in the case, I need to be able to connect everything up internally, and then connect to my rig or the sound desk via an external patch panel.
All the connectors are standard rack components from Proel. Cut the back piece and drill some holes [pic 4]. Install parts for the shelf in the base how to put html code on facebook page the case [pic 5]; I just used glue on all this stuff.
I put the shelf at the same end as the handle, so that the weight of the GTB is at the bottom of the case when you're carrying it. On the left [pic 5] you can casea the tk for the IEC14 power socket standard computer power socket.
This is really really cool because I just plug one cable in that I keep in the cable storage compartmentand everything on my pedalboard is powered. I suggest you put a power switch on there as well - I didn't, and it gets a bit annoying always plugging and unplugging it. I have two internal power points what is tax audit limit I mounted sideways so that big plugpacks will fit properly.
Final touches All that's left is a bit of finishing off. I used speaker carpet to cover the top of the pedal shelf so that I can flightt my stompboxes to it with velcro.
I used vinyl from a car upholsterers to go around the outside of the pedal shelf. In [pic 7] you see the back of the case in all its glory, and a closeup of the patch panel in [pic 1]. The how to be a spy agent kid are all from Proel. If you look closely, you'll see that the leftmost socket is the USB one. I couldn't believe that they made USB connectors in the patch panel format, but there it ti.
I used 10mm closed cell foam around the sides and under the pedal. It's really good stuff - provides a bit of shock absorption and keeps the pedal nice and snug. You can see it in [pic 6], the gray stuff. That's it, you're done!! I've never made anything like this before, but I found it a really fun and surprisingly easy project. I hope this gives you some great ideas on how to build your own pedalboard flightcase.
Best of luck!! Reply 9 years ago on Introduction. Question 1 year ago on Step 6. This is great, thank you! I need to build my own pedalboard case! Can you tell me what kind of rivets you used? I have used pop rivets before but the ends stick out too far and are sharp.
Welcome Log in. Cart Check out. The company. After all keyboards need a few extra precautions, because the keys and other buttons on them are extra vulnerable. Hence why I decided to write out this project in another set of step-by-step instructions. So before you start reading this article, it might be best to read through the general step-by-step instructions first.
Other people will often opt for exactly the opposite in a keyboard flight case: a very low bottom and a very tall, detachable lid, as that kind of design allows the keyboard to stay on the bottom of the case all the time. But this client explicitly asked not to do this. He wanted to take the piano out of the flight case every single time. So we chose to design the case this way. These cases more often have recessed corner castors. As always, I start by writing down the dimensions of the piano the flight case is for.
While doing this, I need to take into account all buttons or feet that stick out. These are about 1. So the outside measurements will be:. That way I can be certain that the lid will fit properly. These will make the wooden box instantly about 1 cm higher because the lid locations come in between the bottom and the lid.
Therefore the outside measurements of my wooden box need to be:. Just as an aside and to be totally clear: the following list would NOT be right: - 2 panels of x 20 cm - 2 panels of x 44 cm - 2 panels of 44 x 20 cm As a general rule there are always 3 possible sawing lists for your wooden box. The one above is number one and here are the other two: - 2 panels of x 18 cm - 2 panels of x 44 cm - 2 panels of 44 x 20 cm or: - 2 panels of x 20 cm - 2 panels of x 42 cm - 2 panels of 42 x 20 cm.
You can saw the panels with a normal hand saw. For tips on this, please see our article « Tips for sawing wood ». The most important thing when it comes to sawing still is pencilling the measurements very carefully onto the wood and definitely making sure every one of your panels has perfect right angles.
I started with a big flightcase panel of cm x cm for the 6 pieces I needed. First I cut the x cm panels and then from the rest of it the x 44 cm and x 18 cm ones. I used a few pieces of wood I still had lying around from other projects to make the other 2 panels of 42 x 18 cm. I made the lid of my case measured on the outside 5.
This is about the narrowest you can make, because there should still be enough room to fit the case angles and lid locations. Now the box is open, I can put on the lid locations. These always need to be mitred and are never fixed with rivets, but with the corner braces at a later stage.
The photo here on the [left] shows how you can work with a narrow lid and still fit large corner braces at the same time; namely by overlapping the ball corners and the corner braces.
In this case, the corner braces are fixed onto the lid with only 2 rivets instead of 4. To fix the ball corners, I used 4. I also put on my 2 medium recessed butterfly latches and 3 recessed hinges with lid stay. I use my fretsaw again to make the holes for the recessed hinges and butterfly latches. Before I start sawing, though, I always find it useful to tie the two parts of my flight case together with two lashing straps you can see my red ones in the photo.
The measurements for the hole I need to saw to fit the recessed hinges with lid stay are the same ones as those for a medium butterfly latch. Fixing them is also as easy, as you can see in the photos.
Because the case will be quite heavy once my client has put his keyboard in it, I prefer to be safe and have chosen to fix the handles with extra long rivets of 4. This kind of keyboard cases often have external-mount handles too. For more information on these, please see our article « Tips for external-mount handles ». For this particular project, I also put large flight case castors on the bottom.
To fix, I made two wheel panels, nicely sanded and painted. For a more detailed explanation, please see our article « Tips for wheels on your case ». So now I can start lining the case. First up, I cut a piece of 2 cm hard foam of x 42 cm and stick it on the bottom.
Then I cut the smaller pieces for the corners and the sides. Foam of 2 cm thick turned out to be just about right for this project. I could consider more thicker foam on the sides, for example by putting 2 pieces of 2 cm foam on top of each other, to make it even easier to take the piano out, but this of course would need me to change the design and measurements for my flight case.
I line the top of the lid first with the black luxury fabric, as you can see here on the photo. Spray the glue in the middle of the lid not on the edges yet - stay a few centimetres away from the edges even. Spray the back of the fabric with the glue as well, roughly in the middle. Now put the fabric on the case and use two hands to rub firmly outwards from the middle to the edges. Then line also the narrow upright sides.
Pull the fabric a few centimetres away from the edges first and spray the fabric and the sides of the case with glue. Then, when everything is properly stuck on, cut off any excess fabric with a sharp utility knife. The foam is there to protect the piano, the fabric provides a nice finish. Talking of protecting the piano, we should of course not forget the foam for the lid. Every keyboard is different, so it speaks for itself that common sense is your best friend when it comes to this issue.
Still a few pictures of the finished end result. Any questions? Don't hesitate to contact us! How to build a flight case? Tips and tricks. New products. My account. Sign out. Browse the mobile site. Cart: 0 product products empty Your Account Welcome Log in. Cart 0 products product empty. The company Who are we? Opening hours. The one above is number one and here are the other two: - 2 panels of x 18 cm - 2 panels of x 44 cm - 2 panels of 44 x 20 cm or: - 2 panels of x 20 cm - 2 panels of x 42 cm - 2 panels of 42 x 20 cm Step 2: wooden box You can saw the panels with a normal hand saw.
Step 3: lid locations Now the box is open, I can put on the lid locations. Step 5: butterfly latches, hinges and handles I also put on my 2 medium recessed butterfly latches and 3 recessed hinges with lid stay. Step 6: wheels For this particular project, I also put large flight case castors on the bottom.
Step 7: inside finish So now I can start lining the case. General flight case assembly instructions Building a inch rack case Building a case with an L-shaped lid Building a keyboard flight case Building an easy case Flight case projects in the spotlight How to build a flight case using plastic sheet material video tutorial. Tips and tricks Which rivets do you need for your flight case and how many?
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